CL005 CLUTCH

I have rebuild a very tired Velocette Viper, a job which has been very nice and enjoyable, but when it comes to the clutch…….the fun stops!!! My problem is as follows:
To the best of my knowledge the clutch has been installed and adjusted as shown in the manual. When I pull the clutch lever in neutral, and engage the kick-starter there are no drag in the clutch what so ever, but when I engage 1. gear, pull the clutch lever, and try to make the rear wheel turn, there is a lot of drag!!!!, this off course means that I cannot engage 1. gear when the engine is running……..so what have I done wrong???
I have fitted new clutch linings, new feathers in the spring carrier, which is turning free.
And another small question….the sleeve gear distance piece (spare part No. B35/3), what are the dimensions on that???
All help will be thankfully received!! - Christian Soe-Jensen  7/8/2001 frogeye@ofir.dk 

I hope someone can provide a definite answer, meanwhile my own thoughts are:
Firstly, B35/3 - I THINK the dimensions are...
Internal diameter 1.375 inch, External diameter 1.550 inch, Length 0.688 inch
I say "think", because I have just measured a used one, and I cannot be certain it is a B35/3, or that it is not worn. But if yours matches these dimensions we can assume both are OK, and if not we can investigate further.
It does not take much wrong to make enough drag to make it difficult to engage first gear when the engine is running, though normally you would also get some drag when stationary. It is true that you can feel it is almost drag-free when stationary, but have some drag when the engine is running, just because the adjustment is not quite right; but yours sounds far worse than this.
However, do also check that you are getting enough movement on the handlebar lever, which has to have extra pull on a Velocette as mentioned in Q CL004
The main causes of drag are:
1. plain plates that are not completely flat.
2. a worn sleeve gear ball race or a sleeve gear nut that has not been fully tightened or the sleeve gear lock ring in the gearbox housing may not be completely tight so that the whole clutch assembly can rock or move in and out when the lever is pulled, so losing some effective movement of the release mechanism.
3. a chainwheel centre bearing that is not completely free to slide on the sleeve gear.
4. very heavy grooving (from wear) of the slots in the chainwheel and front and back plates where the tangs of the plain and friction plates engage, so that the plates stick in these grooves rather than sliding.
All of these can be worse when the clutch is rotating than stationary, particularly number 4 under heavy load - but it isn't usually a problem in your circumstances, and nor should 1. be.
Number 2. is the most likely - as an experiment try adjusting the cable so it is completely tight, or even a little pre-loaded (but not so the clutch slips or you won't be able to start the engine) If you can now get into 1st gear more easily, your problem is probably number 2. or just that you need a lever giving more throw. To check for number 2. you can try to detect movement of the clutch backplate in and out when you operate the clutch lever or as you hold it and push and pull it with the primary chain removed, (using levers as well as hands) but you probably need first to check that the sleeve gear nut is really tight (which can be very difficult to achieve with just a 'peg' spanner!), then I'm afraid you have to remove the clutch and check for movement or wear of the sleeve gear bearing. - Tony Wright 7/8/2001

I followed all the good advices I received from you, but in the meantime I got to knew an elderly Gentleman, who happens to have a Norton International, a Velo 500 Clubman and six (6!!) BSA Goldstars!!. and as you know I am new to the old-bike world but he knew his way around old bikes so he said the blessing words " well lad, lets look at the clutch"!!!. The clutch has been set up correct according to the books, but I must confess that when it comes to the adjustments, my movements ( the little pin through the chainwheel etc.) has been too "rough", so to speak I have moved "around" the correct clutch adjustment all the time!! but with the kind help of Jørgen it works now!! But on the other hand I learned a lot by watching the "old hand" setting the clutch!! Once more thank you for your kind help. - Christian Søe-Jensen Denmark 11/10/2001