CL004 CLUTCH

I acquired a Velo MAC which turned out to be a Viper. The bike now benefits from toothed Dyno belt conversion, 12v conversion, Paper oil filter, tapered bearings, electronic ignition, new Monobloc carb, and modern magneto conversion. Starts first time and goes like a dream. I am still getting to grips with the clutch and brake set up and as yet riding it is not reflex and I have to concentrate to avoid changing gear with the brakes. The thing stalls at traffic lights as even when the clutch is in the bike creeps forward but I am now getting my hands grubby as I adjust the cable, soon have it sorted.

I'm pleased it seems to have "worked first time"! You still need to be prepared for a few disappointments in such a major restoration, but sorting the clutch should be no trouble.
The main point with the Velo clutch is to adjust it only according to the strict drill in the manual; never by just the cable adjuster (which is why the original cable had its adjuster under the tank where you could not easily use it).
You should also check that you have a clutch lever suitable for a Velocette. The distance from the centre of the pivot of the lever and the centre of the nipple must be over 1", and ideally over 1.1" Any less and the clutch will have to either slip or drag, depending on your choice.... (The proper check is on the amount the cable moves, but this depends mainly on the above dimension if you have the traditional shape of lever, and it is much easier to measure as a first check.) - TW 9/6/2001